The sun rises on 25 February, Bahia Urvina, Isla Isabela
By 8 that morning we had taken the Pangas over to the closest black sand beach in Bahia Urvina with snorkel gear in hand but clothes on over our bathing suits. Before hitting the water, we would be walking for two hours in search of new plants, birds and reptiles, and we were ready. While we were at our first stop along the path admiring a bevy of Darwin Finches, one of the Nat. Geo. guides came up and asked Hanzel if he knew where the path to the Galapagos Tortoises was. We could see Hanzel roll his eyes behind his sunglasses! How could a guide anywhere in the Galapagos not know where the path was? We had even learned to recognize the decidedly unobtrusive markers!
(I have to admit here that Hanzel put up a brushy roadblock later to keep that clueless guide from coming to an area that was particularly special to Hanzel. He just could not stand the ignorance.)
We walked and walked that morning under a broiling hot sun, but it was so worth it. Galapagos Tortoises were everywhere, and we found a number of Land Iguanas, too. Darwin Finches were flitting all over the place, and we spied lots of Galapagos Doves. The flowering trees and shrubs in that area also attracted a fair number of wasps, the first pesky insects we had encountered AT ALL, but fortunately they left us alone.
These tortoises cannot hear, but they can feel vibrations of steps. They were good about moving out of the path whenever they felt us coming along.
This vegetarian "monster" stood his ground. He wanted to get a good look at us. Unlike their Marine Iguana counterparts, this Endemic species is very solitary. We never saw more than one of them at a time.
The shade is a favorite spot for all the tortoises.
Tried to get a few photos of the birds, but those Darwin Finches are small and fast. Just when I thought I had one in my sight, it would take flight only to land right behind me and repeat the process all over again. They are cute, chirpy and with very different beaks.
We were all so hot after our walk that even those had not snorkeled in days had to hit the water at least for a swim. We had noticed lots of Penguins on the rocks on our way into the beach, and I was anticipating a chance to swim with them. Fortunately, they wanted to swim with me too, and it was a most satisfying morning. Swimming with Sea Turtles is relaxing; swimming with Sea Lions is a game: swimming with Penguins is a race. Those little black and white birds are aquatic wonders on speed!
"Come on BiBi, Let's Race!"
"And, Now I dare you to catch me! I can swim at 35 kilometers per hour!"
Blue Footed Boobies were watching this Human vs Penguin encounter with great interest! They were like a group of feathered lifeguards.
"Ha, Ha, BiBi, made it to the rocks before you did!"
I had so much fun swimming with these guys. They are amazing, beautiful and fun! The speed at which they move in the water is truly remarkable. I stayed in the warm water here so long that my fingers were a shriveled mess. Again, I was the last one out of the water!
As soon as we returned to the boat, lunch was ready. We did not even have time to change! It had been such a full morning. During siesta, I was the only person not napping in a cabin. Instead I was in my usual spot on the top deck reading the nature guides and writing in my journal. It was quiet, the boat was rocking gently and it was really a time of pure bliss!!
Captain Carlos had moved the Tip Top II during the last portion of the siesta period, and at a little after 3:30 we set out in the Pangas for an excursion into the Mangrove lagoon at Elizabeth Bay. The sun was behind the clouds for the first time all week, and intermittently a little misty rain would fall. In a strange way that only added to the extremely calm and peaceful atmosphere of that silent forest.
We saw numerous Penguins, Pelicans, Lava Herons, Sea Lions, Sea Turtles, Rays, Hawkbill Turtles,
Jumping Mullet, Grouper and Yellow Warblers. It was a real sanctuary for wildlife. We floated silently using paddles for motion so as not to disturb the inhabitants. I found it all so peaceful! Fortunately I had thought to bring my rain jacket. Those who did not do that were actually chilly.
The tangle of Mangrove roots that we were moving among continuously.
A very elusive and hard to find Hawkbill Tortoise.
This little guy led us out of the Mangrove lagoon.
We were back on board at 5 PM in order to cast off and make it to Puerto Villamil, aka Isabelatown by the locals, by daybreak. This would be our roughest time at sea to date so Hanzel warned during the briefing. We would be crossing an area where the currents cross, and even in the calmest weather the seas are incredibly high. He said that even the most stalwart might feel a bit seasick tonight.
Several of us went onto the covered deck with beers in hand to watch Elizabeth Bay fade in the distance, and we were treated to the sight of a Humpback Whale breaching. Wow!!!! Even the crew was excited about that sighting! Chef Javier left his kitchen while in mega dinner mode to have a look. Sadly, my camera was charging down in my cabin, and I missed getting a single shot.
Chef Javier and Juan in the kitchen during a decidedly quieter time of day.
I loved dinner tonight, too. A really delicious Lasagne Bolognese with an Ecuadorean twist that also featured béchamel instead of cheese was the main dish. Add a hearts of palms, artichoke, fresh tomato salad and I was a happy person. Lovely rice pudding for dessert completed the meal for me. Why couldn't we have had these Italianate treats all week?
The boat was rocking and rolling so much after dinner that everyone headed down or up to cabins to bed. I wanted to go to the covered deck and watch the passing swells, but when I tried to do so, I could not keep my balance at all. It was crazy! I had to retreat below. I must admit that face washing and teeth brushing was a REAL challenge!! I had taken wristbands out of my bag of cures just in case, but I never needed them. A strange exhilaration mixed with a little bit of fear is what I felt as the boat pitched forward, rolled one way and then the next and water repeatedly washed completely over my window while the engine groaned behind my head. I consoled myself with the fact that Captain Carlos does this trip all the time and knows these waters like I know Spring Garden Street. I finally fell asleep holding on to the side rail of my bed!
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